There are perks to working in a private Catholic school in Thailand, one of which is a 2 week break for the Christmas and New Years holidays.  As soon as I head about this time off my first thought was that I needed to travel. I could have picked any number of places in the area that I have yet to visit, such as, Vietnam, Myanmar/Burma, Philippines, or any number of Indonesian islands, but for some reason Cambodia was the first place to pop into my mind. Last time I visited the country I had missed my bus and so my already short trip of 5 days was cut down to 4.  I got to explore only one city, Siem Reap, and check out the famed Angkor Wat, which was one of my bucket list items, but I didn't get to do much more exploring.  I thought the Cambodian people were fantastic, and the little I learned of the history of the country I thought was tragic but fascinating. I had also heard that the diving off the southern coast was pretty good, so with that as a kicker I was set.  I had planned on traveling alone, as I normally do, but it just so happened that one of my new friends at school wanted to join.  At first I thought it would be a bad idea because this friend and I are totally opposite travelers. I am the backpacker, budget, roughin' it type of traveler, and she likes hotels with pools, swim up bars,flights instead of buses, and is willing to spend more for western style comforts.  Nothing wrong with either tact of traveling, just very different.  I'm not going to say that we didn't bump heads from time to time on our 10 day trip, but it actually turned out much better than I expected.  We were both able to bend a little bit here and there to make the other one comfortable.  For instance, we flew into Phnom Penh, but we took the bus home to Bangkok.  We stayed a few nights here and there in nice hotels with pools, but when we were on the islands and I was spending money on my dives, she stayed with me in a $5 dorm. See, compromise. We ended up running into a bump at the end of our trip, but before that point we ended up having a fantastic time and I am happy that I got to see more of Cambodia.

We flew into Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, on Christmas Eve.  We got through customs pretty easily, within probably 10-15 minutes, and the hotel picked us up, so everything was pretty seamless. Phnom Penh is steeped in very rich and tragic history.  During a period of civil war in the 1970's, around the time the US was fighting our war in Vietnam, countless families were forced out of their homes and into squalor. Anyone having to do with the old government or anyone suspected of any sort of treason was murdered. Genocide, fear, and starvation became a very real part of these peoples everyday lives.There are many museums in the city which tell a very vivid story of  these times, and there is even a very popular tourist attraction in the area called the 'killing fields'. So I am sure you are wondering why anyone would choose to spend Christmas in such a place.  The truth is, despite the holiday, I did want to see and experience the city. But, considering the holiday, I chose not to visit the museums and killing fields, which seemed too depressing.  Instead I walked the streets, visited the markets, and enjoyed the city for the cultural expose it is today. And yes, there is poverty abound, and it is in many ways what Americans may call '3rd world', but for a country rebuilding itself from shambles they are doing just fine.  

We spent Christmas Eve on the rooftop of our hotel, which was lovely and only about $33/night. We enjoyed a simple western dinner and drank gin and tonics and enjoyed the view.  The next morning we visited the Russian Market which ended up being pretty close to the hotel, even though we walked far out of our way and had to circle back because of some shotty directions from the hotel staff.  The market was really nice, and the preferred currency is US dollars, which makes shopping here much easier.  We bought a few things each and then made our way back to the hotel to lounge by the pool.  The temperature was every bit of in the 90's so it was our plan to spend a good part of the day in the pool.  While we were at the pool we met a British guy I'll call J.  He was very friendly and tended to cling on to us for the remainder of the afternoon, which was fine because he seemed like a nice enough guy and he was buying drinks for us, always a plus. In the evening we met up with J again to go to the river front for dinner and drinks.  

The night was interesting from the start. We took a tuktuk from our hotel, which seemed fine at first until 30 minutes later we were stuck in the most horrific city traffic I have ever seen, breathing in fumes that were making me dizzy and nauseous.  When our driver got stuck at an intersection for at least 10 minutes we decided it would be better to risk our lives and walk the rest of the way.  I say risk our lives because much like any city in SE Asia there are absolutely no traffic rules.  I mean, there may be a traffic light here or there, but the driver takes it upon himself to follow the light or not, and same goes with the general direction of traffic, or the division of street and sidewalk.  The fact is, as a pedestrian you are as likely to get hit walking on the sidewalk as you are walking in the middle of the street.  But still after walking a few blocks we were able to find a clear road and then get a second tuktuk who took us the rest of the way safely to our destination.  We went to a restaurant called Cantina and had a lovely Mexican Christmas meal in Cambodia. After dinner, the 3 of us went to a rooftop bar we had been hearing good things about.  A few drinks in J's hand seemed to find its way to my thigh, and it stayed there for the rest of the night. Cheeky fellow.  Again though, at the end of the night, the conversation was nice, and he paid for all of our drinks, so I will see it was a positive trade off.  J was a very nice guy, and I enjoyed hanging out with him, I just had a hard time getting over the fact that he was much closer to my parents age than mine. 

The next morning we boarded a very comfortable mini-bus for our 4 hour ride to Sihanoukville, on the coast, but I will pick up on that story in a second post because this one is already getting much too long.  Below are a few pics from Phnom Penh.
   

For the last 2 weeks I have had to do listening a speaking mid-term exams with my over 400 students.  This entails taking each child out of the class one-by-one and asking them 10 speaking questions and 10 listening questions.  The speaking test goes a little like this: teacher holds up a picture/flashcard and says "What is this?" and the student gives a one word answer.  For the listening test I hold up two pictures/flashcards and ask the student "Where is the ____?" and the student has to point to the right picture.  These kids are 3 and 4 years old, I can not even believe we have to test them, but it is what it is.  As you can imagine, it has taken me a long time to make it through all of the students, especially since many of my classes have been canceled due to ceremonies and dance practice. It has been to weeks and there are still several classes that are not finished testing, and one I have not even been able to start with.  However, there are several students and whole classes in some cases that have pleasantly surprise me.  I was able to fly through the testing and so many of them got most if not all the questions right! This makes me so proud, and makes me feel like I am making a difference and getting through to these kids, despite their sometimes bad behavior, or the fact that I only see them twice a week or less in some cases.

To reward one of my classes for finishing their testing first and doing so well I made these Christmas stockings for them to color and take home.  First I made a stencil of the stocking and traced and cut out 40 paper stockings.  Then I designed pictures and English phrases on each one. I also made the picture of the stockings hung by the fireplace to create a little bit of context for the children.

 On the day they finished their testing I gave them to the students to color.  Then I collected them and attached some cotton to the top of each.  I wanted to write each of their names across the top in some kind of glitter glue or paint, but I couldn't seem to track down the materials....I looked everywhere! 

Finally I took clothes pins and attached the stocks and hearth to a string of tinsel and hung it on the wall in their classroom.  The students were very excited to see their stocking on display.  As we were hanging it they kept yelling, "Santa!"  It was all very cute and very fulfilling. 

Christmas is right around the corner and I am surprisingly not as home sick as I imagined I would be. Don't get me wrong, I am missing my friends and family terribly, I miss the tree and my mom's Christmas village, and the food and Christmas Eve gift exchange, but it's all bearable.  Maybe it is because I have made some great friends here, or that I have been keeping myself busy with school, projects and grad school applications, or it could be that I am looking forward to my Christmas vacation in Cambodia!  One thing is for sure though, I am not starved for Christmas cheer this year.  For a mainly Buddhist country, Thailand is full of the Chistmas spirit.  Stores have been decorated with Christmas decorations and displays since before Thanksgiving, same as at home.  My school also has trees, lights and decorations galore.  For the past two weeks they have been blasting Christmas music from the speakers every morning.  Kids are dressing in santa costumes and playing or dancing to Christmas tunes. The girls are wearing Christmas bobbins in their hair.  It's all quite festive.  This past weekend my friend and I escaped into the city for a Christmas tour around the Bangkok malls.  
So, don't feel bad for the poor American expat, stuck abroad during the holidays.  Trust me, I see many an American Christmas in my future. For the moment though, I am enjoying a taste of Thai Christmas, and so far it has not been disappointing.

Happy Holidays All!!

The pictures below are all from my Bangkok Christmas mall tour

I am so happy that I made last minute plans to spend my long Father's Day weekend on the island of Koh Chang.  The traveling to and from the island was a bit much for the short time we were there, but in the end we we had an amazing time and it was all worth the trouble.  A large group of teachers from our school had been talking about going for a few weeks, but when no plans were being made Christina and I decided to go ahead a book for ourselves.  We got a round trip bus/ferry ticket for only about $20. The overnight bus to Trat was probably the most uncomfortable ride I've ever taken, and I took many an overnight bus during my travels last year, but it only took 4 hours, so can't complain too much about it.  The bus back was actually worse because it was in the middle of the day and took over 6 hours. The transfers to and from the ferry were easy to follow and were only 60/70 baht on land and only 150 baht each way on the island.  Not so bad considering the ride was about an hour long.  The songtheaw (Covered pickup-truck taxi) was a fun ride on the island.  It felt a little like a really long roller coaster twisting around and around the roads wrapping the mountains of the island, crawling slowly up hills wondering if the engine is gonna make it, and then racing down the other other side.  All the while we are squeezed on the benches in the back holding on the the metal bars for dear life. It was also pouring rain when we arrived, but even through the torrents we could see the quaint towns, and cottage resorts, and already feel the laid back vibe of the island. 
The taxi was nice enough to bring us directly to our resort so we didn't have to walk from town in the rain.  We arrived super early in the morning but the couple who owned Cliff Cottages were immediately accommodating. They promised us the first tent that opened up after check out and invited us to have breakfast and relax in the hammocks overlooking the gorgeous little cove and the sea beyond. The tent we were finally placed in sat on the edge of the cliff sideand had a truly spectacular view. It came equipped with a mattress, electric enough for a couple of lights and a fan, and a cooler filled with ice and some comp bottles of water. Unlike some of the other tents, ours even had our own personal hammocks out front. It could not be more perfect.

Once we were rested on day 1 we took up the offer of free kayaks from the resort and went on a 2.5 hour ride along the coast.  Sufficiently tired, and also because I was fighting a cold (my 2nd one in about a month- kids are gross), I went to bed around 7PM and slept for about 12 hours.  By the morning I was actually feeling much better, so Christina and I went to talk to the owner of the resort and dive shop, Sean, to see if we could sign up to do some diving.  I had been filling Christina's head with diving stories for the past few days so she was eager to do a discovery dive.  Even though it was only an hour before the boat left Sean worked some magic and got Christina set up with a DSD experience and me with 2 fun dives.  The dives were incredible, as I knew they would be.  The first was a wreck dive, and we got to actually swim through the ship, which is always cool.  The second dive was at a reef, which was also beautiful.  The visibility was great, and even through we didn't see anything spectacular or big like a shark or turtle, just being below the water again was magical.  I was actually a little disappointed that we didn't see a whale shark because apparently the day before the divers came across one at one of the locations.  Oh well.  My divemaster, Ben was great and really patient.  Because I was still getting over my cold my sinuses were giving me trouble on the way down, and even under the water I was constantly having to equalize and was getting headaches.  I was trying to take it as easy as possible, but the others in our group were pretty eager and were all over the place.  Ben did a great job though wrangling us underwater and still showing us everything the locations had to offer.  
It was another early night for the weary and sickly travelers, but we didn't care because the weekend was turning out just beautiful and completely relaxing.  We were sad to leave the next morning, but both vow that we will make it back to the island at some point.  Christina did really well in her discovery dive and may go back to get certified.  I am also throwing Koh Chang into the ring as a place I may return to get my dive masters.  I was talking to Sean and he said he may have an opportunity for me to work at the resort while I am getting my certification with them.  Either way, if I go back I would definitely stay at Cliff Cottages again, and I found Sean's diving company, Scuba Dogs, to be fun, safe and professional and would be happy to dive with them again and possibly even get my certification with them. So, we'll see! 

Goofing off in the Japanese Mall in Bangkok before our overnight bus trip.

Tomorrow is father's day here in Thailand and it is a big deal! It is actually the King's birthday and everyone here loves the King. On his birthday Dad's are honored since he is the father of this country, and all week people wear yellow to demonstrate the holiday.  

At school we have 2 days of ceremony and celebration.  On Wednesday the Kindergarten students performed in front of the school board, their parents and all of their peers. There were two tiny MCs, dances, awards given, singing.....it was quite a production. Today was mainly for grades 1-12.  In the morning there was a sort of food drive thing happening, where a bunch of monks came to collect offerings from the kids.  Following that the older students had a similar ceremony with dances and performances for several hours.  Some students get to present their father's with gifts on stage.  

Tomorrow is actual Father's Day and we have off of school! Yeah! My friend Christina and I will be joining about a dozen other teachers for the long weekend on the nearby island of Ko Chang.  I will report back next week on that mini adventure.

Dinner party or dumplings....that is the question?

This happened a couple of weeks ago now, but I have to tell the story because I found this entire situation pretty hysterical.  

It was a Wednesday night when we first started talking dumplings.  Sitting over a tower of beer, 3 Americans and a Chinese woman were making plans to make dumplings.  One American was especially keen on the idea (Christina - I am calling you out on this one).  The next day our Chinese friend, Fu, who teaches Chinese at our school (the kids here learn 4 languages - Thai, Chinese, English, and Tagalog) comes up to us and says she cannot show us how to make dumplings this weekend because she has a dinner party, but she invited us to join her.  I am grading papers and only half paying attention, but I tentatively agree to join.  All Christina hears is - Dumplings.

Sunday rolls around and I completely forget about our plans.  Christina calls to remind me.  I had plans to go into Bangkok, but since I didn't give Fu an answer one way or the other I agree to go.  I didn't want to be rude and drop out last minute.  This is where I will switch to dialogue:

Me: So what is it we are doing again? (I thought I remembered dinner party, but I was looking for a confirmation)
Christina: Fu is taking us to the Chinese market and then we are going back to her place to make dumplings.
Me: Oh, okay. (I still was not convinced, but since I didn't trust my own recollection I just went with it.)

We met up with Fu and a few of the new Chinese teachers to our school.  They are dressed to the 9's, which makes me think this is not a trip to the market after all.  I am feeling relieved that I sort of dressed up.  I ask again....
Me: So, are you sure we are making dumplings.
Christina: Yes....but let's ask Fu.  Hey, Fu, we are making dumplings, right?
Fu: Wednesday or Thursday....Dumplings
Christina: Ok, dumplings. Yes, we are making dumplings.

Now I'm really confused. We board a bus and Christina and I sit together.  I lean over and whisper...

Me: I don't think we are making dumplings.  I think we are going to a dinner party at Fu's friends house.  I think I remember Fu saying dinner party.
Christina: Really? .........I think you may be right.  I thought the girls looked a little dressed up for the market. 
Me: Hahaha...Yea...this should be interesting.

As it turned out I was right, and the two American girls ended up crashing the Chinese teachers dinner party.  Well, we were invited, so not exactly crashing.  I thought it may be a little awkward considering the new girls knew little English, and we spoke no Chinese, but the truth is it turned out great.  It was nice to get to know all of these girls who were teachers at our school.  Our host cooked us an enamoring amount of food from just a rice cooker and fryer - french fries, chicken, fish, pork on rice, spicy noodles.  She had fresh fruit galore and snacks for days.  Only one rule of the house...do not say FULL.  We all sat around her studio apartment in whatever seating she had available, including her bed, which she insisted she had changed the sheets on and would change them again after we left, so no worries.  It was like a giant mixed language lesson, with Christina and I teaching them English words, them teaching us Chinese words, and a couple of the girls also teaching everyone Thai words.

In the end we walked off our meal at the nearby DPU college campus and fed the turtles.  It turned out to be a really fun day, and I am glad that I made the decision to join the party. Lesson learned never to shy away from new or different experiences.

Maybe dumplings next time, Christina. :)